Flea Season is here! Stop the itch!
Authored by Daniel Cardosa, Jr. DVM, DABVP, MACVSc
October 2, 2018
Flea and tick season is upon us! September and October tend to be
the worst months for fleas. Ticks, however, are more plentiful as the
weather cools during October and November. In addition to being a
nuisance, these pests can also transmit a number of diseases, some of
which can be life threatening. Prevention is important to try to avoid
infestation and disease. Infestation with fleas can be very difficult
to get under control and may takes months, and even years to get rid
of. While your dog or cats can not directly transmits diseases from
ticks or fleas directly to you they can bring these pests into your home
where they can reproduce and spread disease by biting you or someone in
your house.
Here's what you can do to try to help prevent your pets from getting sick from these pests or from creating an infestation.
Dogs and cats can get fleas from outside the home and bring them
in with them. Many wild animals, such as rabbits, squirrels and
chipmunks, can have fleas, or, they can get them from other dogs and
cats. Fleas need to feed on blood before they can lay eggs. These eggs
look like grains of salt and fall off the pet where they can hatch
later. The eggs hatch into larvae, small, maggot like creatures, and
then pupate.
Adult fleas, larvae and eggs are susceptible to strategies for
control while pupae are resistant to most control methods. A strategy
for eradicating flea infestation should take into account the life cycle
and various stages of flea development.
Adult fleas must feed on a host in order to reproduce and lay
eggs. Newly emerged adults begin to try to locate a host and feed
within a few hours. Female fleas must have a blood meal in order to lay
eggs. Adult fleas spend the majority of their time on a host and can
live for several weeks to several months. Female fleas may lay 2000
eggs in their lifetime under the right conditions. Optimal environmental
conditions exist within 75-85 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity levels
greater than 70%. Those conditions tend to occur in the summer months
here in the Northeast with September and early October being the most
likely times for the optimal environmental conditions to exist. This is
when we usually the most flea infestations as they tend to reproduce
rapidly in the warm, humid, late summer months.
Eggs begin the life cycle of the flea and are small, white
objects that resemble a grain of salt. The eggs are laid on the host
and drop off as the animal moves around its environment. Eggs will
htach in 2 days to 2 weeks depending on conditions. Warm, humid weather
will allow the eggs to hatch at a faster rate than cool, dry weather
conditions.
Larvae hatch from the flea eggs. Larvae are small, about 1/4
inch long, and white. They look like small fly maggots. The larvae
feed on digested blood left by the feeding adult fleas. The dried blood
looks like coffee grounds. Many mistake the dried blood, also called
"flea dirt" for flea eggs. Larvae will spin a cocoon in 1- 3 weeks
depending on conditions. Again, warm, humid conditions mean the larvae
will pupate faster.
Pupae are the 3rd stage of the life cycle and live in a tightly
wound cocoon that is virtually impermeable to most forms of flea
control. The cocoon is also very sticky allowing it to adhere to the
surrounding environment making it difficult to dislodge from the
surrounding area. Adult fleas emerge from the cocoon only when the
likelihood of a host being present is high. Vibration, increasing
carbon dioxide levels from mammalian respiration and heat will stimulate
the emergence of young adult fleas from the pupal stage.
Adult fleas represent the 4th stage of the flea life cycle.
Adult fleas are controlled by several different methods. Topical
products can be very effective depending in the product used. Spot on
product such as fipronil, permethrins, moxidectin, selamectin,
ivermectin and imidacloprid are all effective as topical agents. These
can be found in a number of different products. It is advisable to also
find a product that contains an insect growth regulator such as
pyriproxyfen to help break the cycle of eggs hatching and molting
larvae. These products are also effective against the larval stages of
the life cycle. Resistance may develop if one product is used
consecutively for many seasons. I recommend clients choose 3 different
products and alternate each season. Oral products are also available
and very effective. Fleas must feed but are usually rapidly killed
often before they can lay eggs. Flea collars are also helpful but
almost never completely resolve flea infestations alone. I recommend
using multiple products to control both fleas and ticks. Again,
exercise caution when selecting products for cats. Every year we see
cats intoxicated by flea and tick products that require hospitalization
and support for several days.
Simply treating your pets won't stop flea infestations. You
must treat the environment as well. This means the indoor environment
and possibly the yard as well. Wash your pets bedding in hot water at
least weekly. Vacuum frequently and regularly for several weeks being
sure to seal and dispose of the vacuum cleaner contents each time you
vacuum. I also like to put some cotton balls with flea spray on them
in the bag or vacuum cleaner canister. This will kill any fleas, larvae
and eggs as well as any pupae that emerge due to the vibration of the
vacuum cleaner. I prefer area sprays over flea bombs or foggers.
Sprays allow you to target areas and require less work and are less
dangerous than foggers. Foggers require you wash you dinnerware and
clothing to get any poisonous residue off. You should also wash any
canned or packaged goods and maybe even throw some food away to avoid
ingesting toxins. Be careful even with sprays though; inhaling them can
be dangerous especially if you have any respiratory issues such as
asthma.
Flea infestation can be extremely challenging to eliminate. You
can do it if you target the flea life cycle and persist in treating
your pets and the environment for several weeks using the correct
chemicals safely. Treat all the pets in the household and all areas
that the pets use including your car and furniture if appropriate.
Please contact a veterinarian if you have any questions about ridding
your home and pets of these pests. Their staff is trained on the best
methods and strategies to eliminate fleas and make your home safe and
comfortable.